How to identify Chanel Jewelery by it's Signatures
Chanel jewelry is renowned for its elegance, quality, and timeless appeal. But sometimes it can get a bit overwhelming when it comes to identifying and analyzing vintage pieces. Over the decades, Chanel has used distinctive signature markings that not only authenticate pieces but also provide clues about their production period.
That's why I would like to give you an in-depth guide to Chanel’s evolving signature styles:
Chanel Signature Markings by Era
1920s-1930s: Most of Chanel's earliest jewelry pieces were unsigned. These early creations were handmade in collaboration with the renowned glass jewelry maker Maison Gripoix, designed specifically to complement Chanel’s fashion collections. Some pieces from this era bear markings such as 'Made in France' or simply 'France,'.
1940s: During the Second World War, Coco Chanel closed her couture house, reopening it in 1954. Therefore, authentic Chanel jewelry cannot be from the 1940s. Some jewelry from the 1940s signed 'Chanel' in cursive script was made by the American company Reinad, also known as the Chanel Novelty Company. Though unrelated to the French brand, these enameled base-metal pieces carried the Chanel name until Coco Chanel successfully sued Reinad, forcing them to stop.
1950s-1971: From 1954 until Coco Chanel's death in 1971, many pieces featured the 'CHANEL' mark in uppercase, sans-serif text, stamped on the back, a rectangular plaque, or as a metal tag on items like necklaces. The stamp was not always centered, and misalignment is not a sign of inauthenticity. Haute Couture pieces, representing the highest standard, featured three stars below 'CHANEL'. 
1971-1980: Chanel jewellery marks switched to a circular plaque. It featured ‘CHANEL’ at the center, with the copyright symbol (©) at the top left, the registered mark (®) at the top right, interlocking ‘CC’ below, and ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ along the bottom.
1981-1985: The plaque stayed a circular plate featuring "CHANEL" and "Made in France" but without a date code. This period saw the rise of bold, statement jewelry pieces that are now vintage favorites.
1986-1989: Chanel jewelery plaques became oval and linked to specific seasons, used from the 23rd to the 29th season. The two digits, placed beside the CC logo, indicated the season (e.g., ‘2 CC 9’ for season 29). Each plaque featured ‘CHANEL’ at the top, ‘MADE IN FRANCE’ at the bottom, and the copyright and registered symbols.
1990-1992: In the 1990/1991 and possibly the 1991/1992 seasons, oval plaques were used without date or season identification. 
1993 onward: Chanel redesigned the signature plaques. The oval plaque now features the last two digits of the year (e.g., ‘93’ for 1993) to the left of the CC logo, with a letter on the right. The letters represent the season: ‘A’ for autumn, ‘P’ for spring, ‘C’ for cruise, and ‘V’ for summer, with A and P being the most common.
Where to find the Signatures
The circular and oval plaques were typically placed on the back of a piece, but could also be wrapped around a chain, attached to a bead or pearl, or incorporated as a link in the chain.
Why it matters
Understanding these signature styles is essential for collectors, resellers, and fashion enthusiasts. Identifying genuine Chanel jewelry not only protects your investment but also deepens your appreciation for the brand’s rich history and craftsmanship.
When you are ever in doubt, please feel free to reach out to me to confirm authenticity. I would love to support you.
Jessy